 Flea & Tick Control
Flea Basics Fleas are "parasites." A parasite is an organism that lives
in or on a larger organism, and at the expense of the larger organism.
Think of the larger organism as the host for the parasite. While some
parasites may not cause problems, others can cause an annoyance,
discomfort and health problems for the host.
Fleas are small and have no wings. Not only do they choose dogs as their
hosts, but also cats, rodents, pigs and humans. Adult fleas suck blood
from their hosts, and they can survive for months while waiting for
their next victim.
Of the many species of fleas, the most prevalent species is "Ctenocephalides
felis," also known as the cat flea. Though it is called a "cat" flea, it
may choose dogs as hosts. There is a dog flea too, "Ctenocephalides
canis." However, it is less common that the "cat flea."
The lifecycle of a flea is divided into four stages. · Adult. Egg, Larvae, Pupae
The female flea lays up to 25 eggs a day. The host pet is often the
choice egg-laying site for dog and cat fleas. What humans and pets find
a comfortable environment, so do these fleas. They too are comfortable
in temperatures from the mid-60's to mid-80's degrees (Fahrenheit). Does
this sound like the temperature range of your home?
Eggs must incubate for several days, and then hatch. At this point, they
are larvae, and they look to burrow into dark and what they consider to
be a safe place. Think furniture and rugs in homes, or leaves outdoors.
They survive off dried blood and organic substances for several weeks.
Next comes the cocoon stage. During this stage they are in a process
called, "pupate." The cocoon protects them extreme temperatures and
insecticides. Studies indicate they can remain in this stage for as long
as one year or more. When do they hatch? Pupae hatch when the dinner
bell rings, in other words, they sense food is near.
Flea infestations can happen year round, but spring is commonly the most
intense period. Cold temperatures turning warm along with humidity makes
ideal conditions for flea uprisings.
Dogs and cats pickup fleas from other flea-infested animals or
environments. After grooming including a de-fleaing the dog can once
again pick-up fleas, so pet owners must follow a preventative problem
and eradicate fleas from their living environments.
Detecting fleas is simple. Using a flea comb, available from
grooming suppliers, comb the dog on a bright clean surface. Look for
tiny black specks on the surface and comb; they might be flea feces. If
you wet flea dirt the water may turn red from dried blood part of the
feces. Heavily infested dogs will scratch persistently and often
irritate their skin further.
Each flea does not spend the whole day on a pet. In fact, it is thought
that they spend as little as 10 or 15 minutes a day on your pet. They
hop on to eat and lay eggs, and then hop off to hide in carpet, bedding
and furniture.
Common Medical Problems Associated with Fleas - Allergies
- Tapeworms
- Infections
- Anemia
Flea bites can cause red, itchy spots. The flea bite is where the flea
has left some of its saliva in the skin. Some pets develop an allergic
response to flea bite saliva. When this happens it is called, "flea
allergy dermatitis." More dogs than cats develop this reaction. The most
common symptoms are excessive scratching around the groin, tail and
backside along with small scabs and bumps sometimes along the back and
neck.
Fleas can introduce tapeworms too. The infested pet should be checked
for tapeworms by their veterinarian. The veterinarian finding tapeworms
will provide treatment for the pet, and the pet's home environment.
Tick Basics
If you have been the "host" of one, you know how painful and problematic
they can be. Since it is not as easy for a pet to tell us it is the host
of a tick, you can possibly provide a lot of relief to a pet with a tick
attached by finding it.
Ticks are not insects, but "Arachnids" included with spiders, scorpions
and mites. They are commonly divided into two groups, "soft" and "hard."
Soft ticks have soft bodies that swell dramatically when they feed. They
typically feed at night when they attach to a passing host, feed and
drop off. Since most pets are inside, soft tick problems are less common
for them.
Hard ticks are the common type found on pets. They are "hard" because
their body is shell-like and does not swell as they feed. Their feeding
habit is to suck the blood of the host and extracts a concentrate of
solid material from the blood, and returns liquid plasma back into the
host. The injection of the plasma opens a large door of opportunity for
the tick to pass along a disease organism into the host.
Like fleas, ticks have a multi-stage life cycle that requires blood as a
food that nourishes them to transform from one stage to the next. When
ready to move onto the next stage, the tick finds a host for blood
nourishment. It bites the victim and buries its head, and this is not
always painful. The tick may stay for hours or days feeding on the host.
Ticks proceed like fleas from eggs, to larvae, to nymphs and then to
adults. At the larvae stage, most ticks do not pose a significant
problem to pets, although a blood meal is necessary. However, as nymphs
they may require several blood feedings during molting before reaching
adult stage. Each blood meal poses the possibility of the tick injecting
the host with undesirable organisms. Ticks are not subject to the
problems of the organisms they transmit, but when a pet dog or cat is
bitten and injected with the organism, they are likely candidates
because of their lack of immunity to the foreign organism.
Ticks are fond of wooded areas with brush and fallen leaves. Your pet
visiting such an area is the most common source of their being
victimized by a tick. However, removal of the tick usually brings
recovery to the pet.
As a pet groomer, we see and feel almost all parts of a pet being
groomed. We advise Pet owners to regularly
feel their pet from head to toe, even once a day during tick season.
Most of the time, ticks are found on the head, neck and paws, but they
can be anywhere. The pet with a tick attached may grimace a bit when a
spot is touched, it could be a tick, or a spot they don't like being
touched. Therefore, go carefully and get your pet used to the exam. In
fact, many pets will love the contact when done carefully.
Keep in mind that pets do not have to go out "in the woods" to get a
tick. Even residential areas in the suburbs can have a tick problem. If
there is leaf litter, shrubbery and tall grass, you have an invitation
to ticks. Wild animals coming by, even birds or a mouse, bring the ticks
to your suburban yard.
Ticks require humidity and therefore prefer a moist area of mulch. When
ready to feed, they climb a tall blade of grass or hang out on leaves
awaiting a host to pass by. Very cold temperatures are not for the tick,
so spring and summer are prime seasons for tick problems. Of course, it
depends upon where you reside, but most of the U.S. and Canada is
perfect for ticks. They enjoy a temperature range above 40 degrees
Fahrenheit, so winter is not prime time for ticks.
When inspecting for ticks look for a lump either by sight or feel. It is
thought that ticks do not transmit diseases immediately, but after the
first day in general, so it is important to remove them immediately. We
advise veterinarian treatment to remove ticks in order to avoid exposure
to common risks associated with tick removal. It's tricky. The use of
heat, such as match or cigarette head is not recommended. This method
can backfire, and often does. Persons using this method often believe
the tick will back out, but experience has shown that that is not always
the case, and worsens the eventual removal process.
We have had great success selling
"spot treatments" available over-the-counter, and which we apply for pet
owners after their pets are fully-groomed.
In our opinion
Flea collars really don't do much help, and some dogs may be allergic to them. Dogs should not get
wet with flea collars on them. Using more than one de-flea product on
dogs at one time is usually not advisable. Combined flea products may be
toxic.
Understanding Insecticides
We provide all natural citric based "de-fleaing" treatments, but
there are different types of treatments. A "flea dip" is a common term
used to describe the de-flea treatment given to pets while they are
being bathed.
The focus of de-fleaing is usually the adult flea. Therefore many
treatments are termed, "Adulticides." Some of the treatments also
attempt to disrupt fleas in other stages on the pet. Adulticides are
chemicals according to O.S.H.A. safety standards. Just as parents
prevent small children from coming into contact with poisons and other
chemicals, the business owner must prevent people and pet accidents with
chemicals on-site. WE DO NOT USE CHEMICALS!
We recommend and sell Frontline "spot-on"
in addition to some home de-bugging agents such as room foggers and
furniture & rug sprays.
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